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[MAP]
Days 22 |
August 8, 1999 |
33,933 |
Tok to Haines Junction |
To ride to Haines we must re-trace our steps on the Alaska
Highway as far south as Haines Junction. The scenery is just as wonderful as it
was when we came up, but we are making time now, and the miles go by at
increasingly higher speeds. Jan's riding skills have improved immensely over the
past three weeks and I find it difficult to keep up with her over the many
sections of road construction. The frequent pavement breaks are loose gravel,
and to ensure I don't put my Cavalcade down, I slow to at least 30 mph at each
break. With her third wheel Jan blasts through with no concern for stability,
barely slowing from highway speed. Between pavement breaks I am forced to ride
as fast as 75 mph to keep her in sight. The improvement in her riding ability in
such a short time period is amazing. We pass and re-pass Julia and Eric several
times as we each make stops to add and delete clothing and rain gear, take
pictures and push through the construction areas.
The BMW apparently has one last trick to play. Other than the
mandatory daily shot of gear oil for the shaft drive, it has run well since
Anchorage. But not for long. Two hours after we filled up with gas at Eureka
Lodge yesterday, the engine started missing. Not much at first; just for a few
seconds every half-hour or so. Jan described it as "running out of
gas" and even switched to the reserve tank at one point, although she had
plenty of fuel left. Thinking there was either moisture in the fuel system from
the bike sitting in Anchorage for a week, or perhaps a tank of bad gas, I add
Heet and it seems to run better for the next hundred miles into Tok.
An hour from Haines Junction the problem seems to worsen, and in
my mind I analyze the potential causes. It's been 300 miles and a new tank of
gas since the problem started, so I doubt that either moisture or bad gas is the
source. It could be a fouled spark plug, clogged fuel filters, or perhaps the
timing needs re-set. At any rate, I am cold and tired, and within a hundred
miles of stopping for the night, so we continue on.
As we ride south we pass familiar names and places – Pine
Valley Lodge, Swift River, Burwash Landing, Destruction Bay and Kluane Lake -
before turning in for the evening at Haines Junction; the spectacular peaks of
the St. Elias Mountains towering above us, illuminated by the evening sun. As
tired and cold as I am it is impossible to not pause and admire the beauty
nature has spread before us.
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Fireweed in full bloom, a
reminder that summer is almost over. Western Yukon. |
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